Description

I came to Puerto Moldonado to explore the illegal gold mining. Yes, I had some preconceived notions. It's hard not to. Even the most cursory internet search will reveal endless editorials - most of them bemoaning the environmental impacts and the massive destruction of the jungle caused by the mining. 

The Bad :

And they are certainly right. Enormous swatches of jungle are essentially being put through a sieve. The river bottom is being drudged up and dumped into huge piles on the banks. Toxic mercury, used to extract gold from sediment, is contaminating both water and land. In addition to all that, the illegal nature of this practice facilitates violence, crime, and corruption - like all illegal activities. 

The Good:

But what is seldom mentioned is the human element. Mining is a huge industry here. It supports multitudes of people, who otherwise would have few options. As one local business owner told me, "Many of the miners come from the Highlands, where they work all day in the fields for S/20.00 (about $6.00)."

The Ugly:

This work is neither glamorous nor easy. Hours are long; conditions are deplorable. Miners stand in water for long periods of time, often falling ill because of it. They handle mercury without protective garments. They breathe in the fumes when burning it.

Most of the workers don't own their own machines. They work for a percent of the yield. Sometimes it's good - other times, not so much.

Then there is the ever present threat of the law. Sure, you can bribe the police if you have enough cash on hand. If you don't, you run. When you're caught, the penalty is severe. I was told by one of the miners that it's a minimum of seven years in jail for the first offense.

There is also the commute to work to consider. The mine could be anywhere around  here. Miners follow the gold. One miner said he quit his well paid gig because it was simply too much of a commute, and he has a family.

As difficult as all this is, gold mining provides economic opportunity to those who need it most. I have to ask myself, "Can these folks afford to be conservationists?"

I suppose that in the end, it all comes down to nature or humanity.

You decide.

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