Description

I’ve always believed in love at first sight, and I’m in love with Jaipur.

Granted, I haven’t yet seen her in the light of day, but at least under the cover of darkness, she captivates. She feels more sophisticated than Bombay or Delhi - elegant, even. But maybe that’s just infatuation talking. I don’t know. Time will tell.

We touched down tonight around 8 p.m., and everything flowed effortlessly. My bag was one of the first on the carousel, the Uber was waiting right outside, the driver spoke English, and my Airbnb host's name is Sam - a name I can finally pronounce.

On the drive to the Airbnb, I remarked that the streets appeared clean - by Indian standards, you could practically eat off them. There were upscale shops, swank restaurants, and fine hotels as far as the eye could see. It seemed to be a vacationer’s dream.

Now, I’m a traveler, not a vacationer. But even I could get used to this.

Sam met me in front of the Airbnb, took my bags, and showed me inside. His mastery of the English language was impressive -not just fluent, but nuanced. Finally, my jokes didn’t fall on deaf ears - he got them. Or at least he knew when to pretend to get them, which honestly, is all I ever wanted. 

I am apparently staying in his "ancestral home". It sounds very blue blood. Though from the looks of things, that generational wealth might have run out or at least been stretched a bit too thin to cover some much-needed repairs. The stairs above the eaves look as though they are one monsoon away from being a pile of rubble outside the door. And there an odd thing going on with the exterior wiring - it's crammed into a very crude trench hacked in the side of the wall. It's a bit disconcerting, but I'll avoid it, like I've been doing with all the suspiciously low-hanging powerlines here. 

The interior, however, is comfortable. Offering all the little quirks of a typical Indian Airbnb.

The hot water is typically turned on and off by a switch. Flip it on, and you’ve got scalding water almost instantly. I took a few cold showers before knew about the magic button. Live and learn.

Inside every shower is a very large bucket and a pail - for the sit bath. At first, I found them oddly unnecessary. But after using them, I'm hooked. I honestly don't know how I am going to live without one now. It's essential.

Stoves here come in two varieties: the two-burner gas countertop iteration, which looks like something you'd bring on a camping trip, and the single-burner induction stove, which cooks faster anything I ever seen - one rustic, one futuristic. I have yet to see an oven, but with all the fresh roti and naan stalls on the street, who needs one? Besides, the Batti seemed to cook just fine in a pile of buffalo dung.

Wall outlets are turned on and off by a switch. I was wondering why my phone wasn't charging until I figured out this little trick. 

There's always a kettle, a few complimentary bottles of drinking water, and best of all, daily cleaning service. 

After check-in, Sam suggested I go to Forestra Bar and Dining for refreshments. By the time I arrived, it must have been well past 10, and the place was jumping.  Loud music, decorative lighting, tasteful decor, and even a line at the door—this in Jaipur, of all places. I hadn’t seen anything like it yet. The closest I’d come were the tourist hotels I’ve stayed in so far, but those felt interchangeable - predictable. Plus, those places cater to the businessperson or the vacationer.

This place, by contrast, was full of locals - There was a huge table of what appeared to be students devouring course after course, clearly in no rush to leave.

The party next to me, two lovely couples, was entertaining in its own right. I watched the men playing tug-of-war with the bill when the ladies stepped outside.  It was a half-hearted effort on the younger guy's part, who relinquished the bill with barely a struggle.

Later on, a few young couples with babies arrived. I thought it was an odd place for infants - the music was loud, too loud for conversation. But what do I know of babies?

We'll see what Jaipur looks like with the lights on, but, so far, I'm hopeful.

Photos